Aksaray is the western gateway province to Cappadocia, and its star attraction is the Ihlara Valley — a 16-kilometre green canyon lined with rock-cut Byzantine churches, carved by the Melendiz River. From central Cappadocia (Göreme, Ürgüp or Nevşehir) the Ihlara Valley sits roughly 90–100 km to the southwest, about a 90-minute drive. Most travellers visit it on a day trip rather than staying in Aksaray itself, pairing the valley hike with nearby Selime Monastery.
Entry to the Ihlara Valley costs €15, and the most rewarding section is the 3–4 km walk between Ihlara village and Belisirma, which takes about two to three hours at an easy pace. This guide covers exactly how to get there, what to see along the way, and how to plan a smooth visit without wasting half your day on logistics.
Where is Aksaray and why visit?
Aksaray is a province and city on the southwestern edge of the Cappadocia region, sitting between Konya and Nevşehir on the historic Silk Road. Compared with the fairy-chimney heartland around Göreme, it feels quieter and more local — you trade tour-bus crowds for green river gorges, Seljuk monuments and working farm villages.
For visitors, Aksaray matters because it is the access point to three things you can't see in central Cappadocia: the lush Ihlara Valley canyon, the cathedral-sized Selime Monastery at the valley's northern end, and the restored Sultanhanı Caravanserai, one of the largest Seljuk-era roadside inns in Anatolia.
How to get to Ihlara Valley from Cappadocia
The Ihlara Valley is not on a frequent public-transport line, so most independent travellers reach it one of three ways. Here is how they compare:
- Private transfer or taxi: The most flexible option. A driver collects you from your hotel, waits while you hike, and can add Selime Monastery and Sultanhanı on the same loop — ideal if you want a self-paced day without a fixed tour group. For the current door-to-door fare from your area, check the Cappadocia taxi price calculator.
- Organised "Green Tour": Most Cappadocia agencies sell a full-day Green Tour that bundles Ihlara Valley, Selime Monastery, Derinkuyu Underground City and a lunch stop. It's economical for solo travellers but runs to a fixed schedule with limited time at each site.
- Rental car: Good freedom, but Aksaray is a 90-minute drive each way and parking near the valley entrances is informal. Worth it only if you're already comfortable driving in rural Turkey.
There is no direct train or tourist shuttle to Ihlara, and intercity buses drop you in Aksaray city centre — still about 40 km from the valley — so they're rarely practical for a day visit. If you're flying in, both Kayseri (ASR) and Nevşehir (NAV) airports connect to the region; Kayseri has more international flights, while Nevşehir is closer to the western valleys.
Insider tip: start the hike at the Ihlara village stairway and walk downstream to Belisirma, then have your driver meet you there. Walking with the river current (and slightly downhill) is far easier than backtracking up the canyon.
Hiking the Ihlara Valley
There are several entry points, but the classic route starts at the main Ihlara village stairway — a long flight of steps that descends about 100 metres into the gorge — and follows the Melendiz River downstream to Belisirma. Allow two to three hours including stops at the painted churches. The path is mostly flat once you're down in the canyon, shaded by poplars, and crosses the river on small footbridges.
The valley holds dozens of rock-cut Byzantine chapels, several with surviving frescoes. The most photographed are clustered near the village stairway, so even a short visit rewards you. Look out for:
- Ağaçaltı Church (Church Under the Tree): Known for a striking domed fresco of the Ascension.
- Sümbüllü Church (Hyacinth Church): A two-storey facade with well-preserved interior painting.
- Yılanlı Church (Snake Church): Famous for a vivid Last Judgement scene depicting sinners and serpents.
- Direkli Church (Column Church): Distinguished by tall rock-carved columns supporting the ceiling.
Belisirma, at the far end of the popular stretch, has a handful of riverside restaurants serving trout and gözleme on platforms over the water — a natural place to break for lunch before your driver continues to Selime. For a deeper trail-by-trail breakdown, see our guide to a day hiking through the Ihlara Valley.
Beyond the valley: Selime, Sultanhanı and Aksaray
The valley is only part of the day. A few minutes' drive past Belisirma, the canyon opens into the village of Selime and its enormous monastery complex — a multi-level warren of chapels, a barrel-vaulted cathedral, kitchens and stables carved into soft tuff cliffs. It's the largest religious structure in Cappadocia and a highlight in its own right; our Göreme to Selime Monastery transfer guide covers the route in detail.
If you have time on the way back, the 13th-century Sultanhanı Caravanserai sits beside the Konya road and is one of the best-preserved Seljuk inns anywhere — see our Cappadocia to Sultanhanı transfer guide. In Aksaray city itself, the leaning Eğri Minare and the Seljuk Ulu Cami are worth a brief stop, and the historic Greek town of Güzelyurt makes a charming detour.
Best time to visit and what to pack
The ideal months are April–May and September–October, when the canyon is green, temperatures are mild and the trail is quiet. Summer (June–August) is hot and busier, though the riverside shade keeps the valley cooler than the open plateau. Winter is atmospheric but the stairway and rocks can be icy. Whenever you go, bring:
- Sturdy walking shoes — the stairway and riverbank stones are uneven.
- Water and a hat; there's limited shade on the descent steps.
- Cash in Turkish lira for the entrance booth and Belisirma restaurants.
- A light layer even in summer — the canyon floor is noticeably cooler.
Planning a wider itinerary? Our Cappadocia travel info hub maps out routes and day-trip combinations across the region.
Frequently Asked Questions
How far is Ihlara Valley from Göreme?
The Ihlara Valley is about 90–100 km southwest of Göreme, a drive of roughly 90 minutes each way. Because there's no direct public transport, most visitors go by private transfer, a guided Green Tour, or rental car. For the current door-to-door fare, check the Cappadocia taxi price calculator.
How much does it cost to enter Ihlara Valley?
Entry to the Ihlara Valley is €15 per person, paid at the booth by the main village stairway. The fee covers access to the canyon trail and its rock-cut churches. Bring Turkish lira in cash, as card payment isn't always reliable at the gate.
How long does the Ihlara Valley hike take?
The popular stretch from Ihlara village to Belisirma is 3–4 km and takes about two to three hours, including time to explore the painted churches. The path is mostly flat along the river, with a steep stairway at the start. Walking the full valley to Selime takes considerably longer and is usually done with a vehicle waiting at the end.
Can I visit Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery in one day?
Yes. Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery sit at opposite ends of the same canyon and are easily combined in a single day from central Cappadocia, often with Derinkuyu Underground City or Sultanhanı Caravanserai added. A private transfer lets you hike one-way and have your driver meet you at Belisirma or Selime, which is far more relaxed than backtracking.
Is Aksaray a good base for visiting Cappadocia?
Aksaray works well if your focus is the Ihlara Valley, Selime and Sultanhanı, and you prefer a quieter, more local stay. However, most travellers base themselves in Göreme, Ürgüp or Uchisar to be near the fairy chimneys, hot-air balloon launches and open-air museums, and visit Aksaray as a day trip instead.
