Imagine an entire city built not upward but downward — 18 floors carved into the volcanic rock beneath your feet, capable of housing 20,000 people along with their livestock, food stores, wine presses, and places of worship, all concealed beneath a plain of apricot orchards and grain fields. This is Derinkuyu, the deepest of Cappadocia's underground cities, and it is one of the most astonishing things that human hands have ever made.
Why Were the Underground Cities Built?
The cities as we know them today were primarily developed and used during the Byzantine era, roughly from the 6th to the 10th centuries CE. This was a period of repeated Arab raids into Anatolia. Byzantine communities needed somewhere to hide, and the soft volcanic tuff beneath their feet provided the answer. The underground cities were not permanent residences — they were refuges, places to retreat for days or weeks when raiders were approaching.
Derinkuyu: The Deepest City on Earth
Derinkuyu (the name means 'deep well' in Turkish) descends 18 floors below the surface, reaching a depth of approximately 60 meters. It could have sheltered up to 20,000 people along with their animals and food supplies. The complex contains stables, wineries, oil presses, communal kitchens, dormitories, schools, and a cruciform church on the lowest accessible level.
- 18 floors carved into volcanic rock, descending 60 meters below the surface
- Estimated capacity of 20,000 people including livestock
- A full ventilation shaft runs the entire depth of the complex
- Large circular millstone doors (up to 500kg each) could seal each level from inside
- A cruciform church on the deepest accessible level confirms Byzantine Christian use
Kaymakli: The Wider Underground City
Kaymakli, located about 9 kilometers north of Derinkuyu, spreads wide rather than deep. Its tunnels branch extensively on each level, creating a labyrinthine network that is easier to navigate in terms of ceiling height. Currently four levels are open to the public. Its highlights include well-preserved stables with carved stone troughs, a large winery, and a remarkably spacious church.
These were not primitive holes in the ground. They were sophisticated, purpose-built survival systems engineered by communities who understood exactly what they needed to survive.
Tips for Claustrophobes
Some passages require stooping, turning sideways, or descending steep stone stairs in close quarters. If you have significant claustrophobia, Kaymakli's wider tunnels make it the more accessible option. The temperature underground stays around 13°C year-round — a cool relief in summer, but bring a light layer in winter.
Getting There by Taxi from Göreme
Derinkuyu is approximately 29 kilometers south of Göreme — about 30 minutes by private taxi. Kaymakli is closer at about 19 kilometers, taking roughly 20 minutes. Most visitors combine both sites in a single day trip, typically visiting Kaymakli first and then continuing to Derinkuyu.
Practical Information
- Both sites are open daily, typically from 08:00 to 19:00 in summer
- Entrance fees are covered by the Museum Pass Turkey card
- Wear flat, closed-toe shoes — the floors are uneven and sometimes damp
- Bring a light jacket regardless of the season
- Allow 45–60 minutes per site for a thorough visit
